Category Archives: Travel & Mobility

The Grand Tour: Epilogue, or An Education

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“After all, the grand tour is just the inspired man’s way of heading home.” – Paul Theroux, The Great Railway Bazaar           So what have I learned from this year of nostalgia and re-discovery?      I’ve learnt, for a … Continue reading →

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“Streets of Harmony” in Singapore

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All three of the Straits Settlements towns, Penang, Malacca and Singapore were known to be multi-cultural melting pots, home to almost all of the creeds and religions in the world.  In each of these, there were streets known as “Streets … Continue reading →

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Colonial Contemporary Singapore

This gallery contains 40 photos.

         What distinguishes Singapore from everywhere else in Southeast Asia, is that here, one still feels keenly, the sense of the colonial.  In fact, the colonial is pervasive in Singapore, not just in terms of the way of life here; … Continue reading →

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The Raffles Hotel, Singapore…aka Beautiful but Soul-less

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This was it: the grande dame of not just Singapore, but Southeast Asia.  It was meant to be the glorious climax and culmination of the entire Grand Tour.  But somehow, it fell short, by about a mile. I think it … Continue reading →

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The Grand Tour XII – Colonial Capital… Singapore

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“’No, Jim, that’s not what the Singapore Grip is,” cried Matthew, his eyes flashing more than ever. ‘I know what it is! It’s the grip of our Western culture and economy on the Far East… It’s the stranglehold of capital … Continue reading →

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A Dream of Old Malacca

This gallery contains 40 photos.

In 1883, the celebrated author and explorer, Isabella Lucy Bird had this to say about her extended sojourn in Malacca, to which she had decided to wend her trans-continental journey, on a whim: “Malacca fascinates me more and more daily. … Continue reading →

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Majestic Hotel, Malacca

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Malacca doesn’t have a Grand Hotel per se, but it does have Majestic Hotel, which is almost as historic, and has been recently refurbished so it recalls these other Grand Hotels in the region. The “peranakan” or mixed architecture of … Continue reading →

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The Grand Tour XI – Traços Portugueses: Malacca, Malaysia

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Malacca is the first European colony, and the most colonised city in Southeast Asia, having been taken over by the Portuguese in 1511, and having had not just one colonial master, but three (the Dutch from 1641, and the British … Continue reading →

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Colonial Architecture in Jakarta

This gallery contains 35 photos.

Oud Batavia lingers today in a few isolated neighborhoods in Jakarta.  The greatest concentration of historic buildings is to the North, in what is now known as Kota, or “City.”  Here lies the old administrative and commercial heart of colonial … Continue reading →

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The Hotel Des Indes (demolished), Jakarta

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So the question is this: how does one re-create something that is no longer there? The Hotel Des Indes was the oldest and the grandest of the Grand Hotels in Southeast Asia, having been opened in the 1860s.  It was … Continue reading →

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