Monthly Archives: February 2013

Hanoi, or the Colonial City

This gallery contains 21 photos.

Hanoi was captured by the French in 1873, and relinquished to Ho Chi Minh in 1954.  Compared to the 1000 years of Chinese rule over Vietnam, the 80 years of French Colonial rule seem like a mere afterthought. However, having … Continue reading

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Hà Nội, or the Old Town

This gallery contains 25 photos.

The best time to visit the Old Town is at dawn, when the streets are stripped of their human detritus and the ancient facades are finally revealed in their full, crumbling glory. There is much to admire here, architecturally: quaint … Continue reading

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Hotel Metropole, Hanoi

This gallery contains 5 photos.

In Hanoi, I stayed at the legendary Hotel Metropole, now known as the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. This hotel was very special to me. Because it was here, three years ago, just past midnight on New Year’s Day 2010, that … Continue reading

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Tha Grand Tour IX: Dragon Ascending – Hanoi (河內), Vietnam

This gallery contains 7 photos.

天报月密問來往/水色山光相送迎 “Heaven tells the Moon secrets and asks how it’s been; / Scenes of Lake and scenes of Mountain welcome each other.” - Couplet, Inscription at Ngoc Son (Jade Mountain) Temple Hanoi is the 9th stop of my Grand Tour. … Continue reading

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125th St – Demolition Depot (3rd to 1st Aves)

This gallery contains 9 photos.

This final chapter of the Tale of 125th Street is titled “Demolition Depot,” after an actual establishment on the street, if only because everything between 3rd and 2nd Avenues at least looks slated for the wrecking ball.  Nothing may come … Continue reading

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125th St – Gentrification Central (7th – 3rd Aves)

This gallery contains 17 photos.

If the appearance of a medical college in the last sector foretold gentrification, here between 7th and 3rd Avenues is where the phenomena is witnessed at full force. Here’s where 125th Street starts to look like a suburban outlet mall. … Continue reading

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125th St – Main Street Parade (Frederick Douglass Blvd to Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvd)

This gallery contains 9 photos.

As the iconic Apollo Theater comes into view, Harlem springs into life, in a Disneyland-ish sort of way.  This used to be theater land, after all; Harlem’s equivalent of Broadway.  The Apollo Theater is still a functioning venue, and still … Continue reading

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125th St – Greener Pastures (Broadway to 8th Ave)

This gallery contains 7 photos.

Past Amsterdam Avenue, 125th Street reverts to a village, reminding one of the the days of Nieuw Haarlem, the farming village established by Dutch colonisers in 1658, and occupied by the British very shortly in 1664. Spiritually, this section of … Continue reading

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125th St – Almost Yuppie (West Harlem Piers to Broadway)

This gallery contains 7 photos.

At the edge of Harlem lies a peaceful little park where one goes to contemplate New Jersey and the Hudson River. Except no one really goes there, unless one is homeless, in which case one goes to find a bench … Continue reading

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Manhattan in 12 Sts: 125th St – Generic: Harlem

This gallery contains 4 photos.

“[t]he City… a universe of rented spaces haunted by a nowhere or by dreamed-of places.” – Michel de Certeau, The Practice of Everyday Life “It’s such a / Bore / Being always / Poor.” – Langston Hughes, Ennui Harlem. The … Continue reading

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