The Mandovi (1952).

The Mandovi is the closest Goa has to a “Grand Hotel” in the vein of the Taj Mahal Palace in Bombay or the Grand Hotel in Calcutta.  Built in 1952, it was Goa’s first hotel that matched international standards, the first 5-storey building in Goa, and also boasted Goa’s first lift.

The hotel, which commands a spectacular location and view on the Mandovi River (hence the name), was designed in an Art Deco style by a Bombay-based architectural firm, and its construction was personally overseen by the Portuguese Governor-General. Before Goa’s liberation and after, it was the centre of the city of Panjim’s social circle, playing host to dignitaries from all over India and the world.

Unfortunately, I did not stay in The Mandovi during my time in Panjim, choosing instead to stay in Fontainhas at the delightful Panjim Inn. I did, however, lunch at the Mandovi’s restaurant where extremely yummy Goan and Portuguese cuisine has been served since the hotel’s inception.

Panjim Inn is a 130-year old grand mansion built in 1880 and still owned by the family who built it. It has been lovingly restored and transformed into a heritage boutique hotel in the very heart of historic Fontainhas. One could spend lazy afternoons nursing a drink at the hotel’s Verandah Restaurant, which also serves delicious Goan cuisine.

From Panjim, I ventured further out to Fort Aguada, one of the oldest and largest forts in Goa, built by the Portuguese in 1612 at the mouth of the Mandovi River to guard against a Dutch attack. Occupying an entire peninsula, the Fort provides a spectacular backdrop to the Taj Fort Aguada Resort and Spa, where I sojourned briefly before leaving Goa.

Here on Sinquerim Beach by the surreal-magnificent Fort Aguada ramparts, I spent a few relaxing days reflecting on my journey thus far and planning the journey ahead, now that I had come to the mid-point of this Grand Tour of the Port and Princely Cities of the Subcontinent.

The Mandovi

Close-up of the Art Deco Mandovi, Panjim.

The front facade of the Mandovi is in an Art Deco style which channels Marine Drive in Bombay.

The crowded restaurant of the Mandovi.

A must-have: Goan Fish Curry.

Goan Beef Steak.

Panjim Inn, Fontainhas

Panjim Inn is a grand family mansion built in 1880.

From the Verandah Restaurant one can see the adjoining Panjim Peoples, which holds a gallery and guest rooms as well.

The back of the property.

My room…

Close-up of Panjim Peoples.

Taj Fort Aguada Resort and Spa

The ramparts of Fort Aguada, jutting out into the Arabian Sea.

At the edge of the ramparts.

At the edge of the ramparts, looking back toward Taj Fort Aguada Resort and Spa.

View from the hotel out towards the ramparts.

View of the ramparts.

Fort Aguada Lighthouse, located at the Upper Fort of Fort Aguada proper, which is some 20 minutes away from Taj Fort Aguada by car.

Another view of the magnificent Fort Aguada Lighthouse.

Back at the ramparts, near Taj Fort Aguada… looking out to sea.

Sinquerim beach lay just beyond the ramparts…

And finally, a backward glance at the Mandovi. Goodbye Goa!!

Next stop: Bombay (Mumbai)