Near the edge of the water, we enter the final ethnic enclave on Grand Street. This is the largely Jewish enclave of Co-op Village. Here, one sees a landscape of towering red-brick apartment buildings with stunning views unto the water or the city.
Residents here are descendants of Polish, German and other Eastern European Jews who fled the Holocaust. The Jewish community here is close-knit, and a mix of conservative and secular. Here, on the Sabbath, lifts stop on every floor so those of a more Orthodox persuasion need not “work” the machine.
East River Houses, overlooking FDR Drive, was once sort-of home to me in New York, ten years ago, when I was partnered with a member of the tribe. And walking past the exact building I had “lived” in filled me with some emotion.